WALLPAPERS FOR ALL

AEG Troubleshooting

If your new AEG does not perform as expected, the best thing you can do is to sit down and read through this guide. It is also most advisable to read through the manual supplied with the AEG. Even if the manual is in a language you don't understand, most manuals have clear illustrations on how to use the weapon, and certain important parts are usually translated to English.

Reading through this guide may very well save you at least time and in some cases money, because if a product is returned to us and found to be fully functional, we are unable to pay for any shipping costs in either direction. You should only contact our after-sales service after reading through this Troubleshooting guide.

Problem 1: I pull the trigger and nothing happens (no sound at all)

(i) Battery is not connected. Please check even if you think you connected it.
(ii) Fuse is blown. You may try another fuse, but if it blows too, you are using a fuse rated for low current or there is something wrong with the AEG or battery. You will recognize a blown fuse by the broken metal connection in the glass tube.
(iii) If the fully charged battery is connected and the fuse is in order, the connection is broken elsewhere.

Problem 2: I pull the trigger, but the AEG does not cycle (clicking sound to be heard)

(i) Battery is not fully charged. One of the most common problems people encounter is that they don't charge the battery properly before inserting it into the AEG and trying to shoot.
�If you inserted your battery into the gun, pulled the trigger and heard nothing but a clicking sound (almost as if the motor in the pistol grip tried to turn but it didn't have enough power), then that is a sign that you didn't charge your battery properly.

If you didn't charge the battery properly, then it may not have enough electric charge to push the motor and hence wind up the spring inside the AEG.� Ensure that you have fully charged your battery.� Following a rapid charge, your battery should be warm to touch - but don't let it overheat!� If you've ordered the charger from an overseas retailer like ourselves, you should check to ensure that the voltage setting on the charger is set to your country's wall outlet voltage.� For example, US residents should set the voltage selector switch on the charger to 110 volts while UK residents should set their chargers to 220 volts.� For US players, if you set your charger to 220v, you will never successfully charge the battery.� For UK players, if you set your charger to 110v, you will start a fire! � So check before you plug in your chargers!

It is rather simple to estimate how long the charging should take. In the capacity of the batteries, mA stands for milliamps, and h for hours. It tells you how many amps the battery can continuously put out for one hour, before running dry. You can convert milliamps to amps by moving the decimal three steps to the left. The relation between amps and hours is counter-relative, which means that to split the charging time in half, you need to double the charging current like in Example 2.

Example 1: 8.4 V 2300 mAh (2.3 Ah) If the charging current is 1 A, it will take 2.3 hours (2 hours 20 minutes).
Example 2: 9.6 V 1700 mAh (1.7 Ah) To charge this battery in 30 minutes, the charging current has to be 3.4 amps.

Do note that these are only estimates, and part of the energy is lost as heat as the pack becomes slightly warm. The charging current dial on the charger only shows a nominal current, and all battery packs are unique individuals. To know the accurate charging current, you would need a meter. It is easiest to monitor the charging process closely for the first few times to learn the charging characteristics of that battery/charger combination.
Always monitor a rapid charge and disconnect the battery if it becomes hot (over body temperature)

Problem 3: I only get 500 rounds from one charge of my battery while my friends can get over 2500 rounds per charge. Rate of fire is also rather slow.

(i)The likely problem is you didn't charge your battery fully or properly. See solution for Problem 2.

(ii) You may be using a mini battery, or your AEG is upgraded. Large batteries have more energy than smaller ones, and upgrades naturally consume more energy than standard powered AEGs.

(iii) Try another battery in your AEG, and your battery in another AEG to isolate the problem. It's no use fixing the AEG if the battery causes the problems.

Problem 4: The life of my battery seems to lessen and lessen every time I recharge

Batteries used in AEGs have "memory", meaning that you must discharge the battery fully each time before you recharge it.� Just because you drain the battery with your AEG (the battery doesn't have enough energy to turn over the AEG) doesn't mean the battery is fully discharged.�You must fully discharge a NiCd-battery each time before recharging.�NiMH and Lithium batteries on the other hand will be damaged by complete discharging.

Use a discharger to discharge the battery before charging.� We sell these dischargers on our accessories page.� Some "intelligent" chargers have discharging functions of their own.� And for some of your creative types, you can devise your own ways of discharging batteries, such as hooking up a connector to a light-bulb or motor to discharge your batteries. Do note that you should disconnect the discharger as soon as the indicator light becomes clearly dim or goes out completely.

Problem 5: I am firing the AEG but no BB's come out

Don't laugh but some couldn't figure out to remove the red barrel plug before firing!

(i) Remove barrel safety plug
(ii) Ensure BB's are loaded into the magazine and the magazine is securely attached to the AEG. If you have a high-capacity magazine, make sure you wind up the dial on the bottom of the magazine to fully wind the spring.
(iii) Only use high quality BBs and don't reuse them.
(iv) Excessive hop-up setting may cause BBs to clog. Set the hop-up to zero and adjust it gradually between shots.
(v) Make sure the barrel is clean - not by looking into it, but by cleaning it. This may sometimes be required even on a brand new gun.

Problem 6: I am using 0.3g or heavier BB's and they are not going very far in my stock AEG

This is normal for a stock gun.� You should stick to using 0.2 or 0.25g BBs on a stock AEG.� Only move up to 0.3g or heavier on a modified AEG.� If you use BBs that are simply too heavy, they will not go very far.

Problem 7: The trigger locked up on Semi

Even though Tokyo Marui manuals will let you know this is normal sometimes and how to clear the lock-up, some people want a bit more information about this phenomena.

The sector gear of the AEG (which pulls back and releases the piston) makes one rotation for each shot. When the AEG is set on semiautomatic, the sector gear actuates the cut-off lever, which in turn disengages the electric switch. Sometimes the sector gear stops in a sweet spot (in the negative sense of the word), and the cut-off lever is actuated only half way. This prevents the electric switch from being pushed, resulting in a simple click when the trigger is pulled.
When you turn the selector to full automatic, the cut-off lever is moved all the way up. You can now pull the trigger to fire the AEG, and most likely the sector gear will stop in a different position this time.

If this happens on a P90, you will need to remove the gearbox by removing two screws and a plastic plate in the battery compartment, and change the cut-off lever position manually on the left side of the gearbox. Pulling the trigger with excessive force may damage the trigger mechanism!

Problem 8: The hop-up doesn't seem to be working and my BB's don't seem to be going very far

(i)If you've had your AEG in storage for a long time, the hop-up rubber parts may have dried up quite a bit and have lost their rubbery characteristics. Squirt some silicone into the BB feed tube (inside the magazine well) and clean the barrel. This will help the hop-up resume it's normal function. The hop up may be unstable for a few hundred rounds, but it will regain consistent action soon.

(ii)You may have the hop-up setting too high. Set the hop-up to zero and adjust it gradually between shots.

Problem 9: My AEG generates a funky electric smell

It's completely normal for the AEG motor to generate some smell when a new AEG is operated.

Problem 10: BBs fall out of the gun when I remove the magazine

BBs go from the magazine into the barrel via a feed tube. The follower of the magazine does not push the BBs all the way up, so the contents of the feed tube may fall out when you remove the magazine, even though the AEG was dry-firing. Certain AEGs (PSG-1 and Type 89) feature magazines which feed all BBs, but for other AEGs it's nothing to be worried about.

Problem 11: The BBs are constantly curving to the left

You are most likely right handed (or at least shooting from the right shoulder), and the AEG is slightly tilted to the left. Tilting the AEG to the left or right will cause BBs to curve because of the hop-up.

Problem 12: The inner barrel of my TM M1A1 Thompson is not centered.

All the outer barrels are like this, so yours is not defective. The inner barrel is secured to point in the low-right direction. We don't know why they are like this, but it does not affect the performance of the AEG. In fact, the M1A1 is regarded as one of the most accurate TM AEGs out of the box!

maintanence and repair part1-How GBB work

Initial position. As the trigger is pulled, the BB is shot out and the slide starts moving back. The pistol will "nod" a little bit.

When the slide hits the rear position, it comes to such a sudden stop that it creates a feeling of "recoil" and tilts the muzzle. As the slide starts accelerating forward, it pushes the grip further against the web of thumb.

As the slide returns to battery, it comes to yet another sudden stop. If you were holding firmly, the sight picture should be as it was before you pulled the trigger.

The valve is knocked open, and gas rushes into the loading nozzle. The floating valve directs it behind the BB first.

With the BB gone and the loading nozzle forward, the pressure is directed to propel the slide back.

The Marui system works as above. Valve open -> BB out!

The gas flow pushes the spring-loaded floating valve forward, allowing pressure to build up for blowback.

Even after the slide has cocked the hammer during the rear stroke, the valve knocker remains forward, keeping the valve open for better blowback.

Only after the slide trips the valve knocker lock, the valve is allowed to close.

The blowback system of the Tokyo Marui P226 disassembled. Notice the white piston head cup inside the blowback frame.

Ever wondered why a high flow valve is able to release more gas? Well, here's why!

maintanence and repair part1-GBB

Principles of Gas Blowback (GBB)

HOW DOES IT HAPPEN? The magazine of a GBB pistol holds the gas and BBs. The gas is commonly HFC134a (aka. duster gas) or C3H8 (Propane, aka. Green gas, Top gas etc.). Upon firing the trigger, the hammer knocks the main valve open via a firing pin. Another term for the firing pin is "valve knocker". The valve is now open. There are locking devices to keep the valve open for a certain amount of time even when the slide goes back to cock the hammer. Western Arms puts valve locks on their magazines, while others incorporate the lock into the firing mechanism to hold the firing pin (or valve knocker) out. The slide trips the lock later during the cycle to allow the valve to close. The main valve lets the gas into the loading nozzle. Inside the loading nozzle, a switch valve (aka. floating valve, rocket valve...) directs the gas behind the BB to shoot it out of the barrel. The gas flow causes the switch valve to move forward and block the gas flow into the barrel. As the pressure inside the loading nozzle builds up, the slide is forced back by the blowback piston. It has been confirmed with high-speed video equipment, that the BB makes it out of the barrel before the slide has time to move, so the recoil does not affect accuracy! In the WA system, the rear of the loading nozzle is the piston, and the blowback-frame in the rear of the slide wraps around the piston head. In other systems such as Tokyo Marui, the loading nozzle itself is the cylinder, and a piston is fixed to the rear of the slide. In either case, gas pressure is pushing the loading nozzle and slide in the opposite directions. Because the loading nozzle can not move forward, the slide moves back. It's a common misconception that the loading nozzle has to "stick" forward when you rack the slide manually. Don't worry: The pressure holds it forward.

The loading nozzle has a mechanical limit as to how far it can extend, and the slide moves a longer distance than that. After the blowback piston has given the slide all it can, the slide continues to move rearward with inertia, pulling the loading nozzle along. This allows the next BB to move up to the feed lips of the magazine. During the rearward movement, the slide resets the trigger mechanism, cocks the hammer and compresses the recoil spring. The loading nozzle has its own return spring(s) to retract it into the rear of the slide, but the purpose of this is mainly aesthetic. Some models don't have this spring at all, and sometimes a piston head with a tight seal makes the spring unable to retract the nozzle completely. As the slide returns forward pushed by the recoil spring, the loading nozzle picks up a new BB from the magazine and chambers it. The pistol is then ready for another shot.

IMPROVEMENT WORK

As pretty much all mechanical systems, the blowback system can be upgraded as well. The parts can be swapped for more durable ones (being as many models are designed for HFC134a, not the high pressure Green Gas), but you can also tune the performance with different valves and springs. Here's a short rundown of the effect of various parts:

The recoil spring is often changed to any pistol upgraded with a metal slide. The main purpose of a recoil spring is to push the heavier slide forward more quickly, to make the action more snappy and reliable. It's a common misconception that a stronger recoil spring would equate stronger recoil: It actually works against the slide rearward movement, which means that the shock of the slide stopping at the back is reduced.

High flow valves are a replacement for the main valve of the magazine, which means you need one for each mag. There are various models around, and you can also port the original valves if you're related to Blue Peter. The principle is quite simple: They let out gas at a higher flow rate from the magazine into the loading nozzle. It increases the muzzle velocity of the BB, rearward speed of the slide (and thus recoil as well), but also gas consumption is increased and it can lead to cooldown issues.

Piston heads are typically a reinforcement part, commonly equipped with a simple and durable O-ring instead of skirted Y-ring or cup designs. They are more resistant to malfunction at higher pressures. The PDI Winter type piston head extends further into the loading nozzle, which means that the effective stroke length is increased. You can use it the whole year around for the best performance if you have a metal slide.
The Nine Ball Dyna piston head features ports to expand the O-ring against the inside of the loading nozzle, when it's pressurized. These are popular piston heads, although the cost is many times the price of a PDI head. Dyna piston heads come with a spring for the floating valve, which improves muzzle velocity quite nicely.

Floating valves of various kinds are available, such as the Airsoft Surgeon Power Up floating valve for the KSC Glock series. Metallic ones are more durable than original plastic ones, and brass-made valves are heavier, so the gas flow behind the BB is improved, resulting in a higher muzzle velocity.

A largely misunderstood part is the hammer spring. While it does improve muzzle velocity, the main purpose is to reliably open the valve in the first place. When higher pressure gases are used, the valve becomes harder to open. If the hammer spring tension is insufficient, the valve does not open fully, and the blowback will be sluggish. This is easy to spot in a pistol, when you insert a full magazine and start shooting. The operation will be erratic for a few shots (with proper cycling and half-arsed strokes), but as the gas cools down lowering the pressure, the pistol starts operating properly. If the original hammer spring is not opening the valve reliably, it should be changed to a stronger one. But remember that a harder hammer spring is harder to compress, so it slows down the slide as it moves back. The trigger pull weight is also increased, and the wear to the sear as well.

Tuning a gas blowback pistol doesn't have that many variables, but it takes a lot of experience and testing to find the perfect combination for you. Whether you like to maximize the velocity, get the most recoil and realism, or just a fast-cycling stable race gun for practical shooting, the options are available!

Systema Professional Training Weapon System

Introduction

Systema set out to create a replica that would revolutionize the AEG as we know it, for the purposes of creating the most reliable and realistic training tool they could. The Systema Professional Training Weapon System (or PTWS) was developed specifically for Law Enforcement or Military training application, but is also available to the private sector.

So, you ask, "Have they done it?" Does it really matter what we think? Really, the PTWS wasn't actually created for mil-sim Airsoft players nor is it marketed to us. Still, here's an objective look on how you might expect it to perform on the playfield.

Before I proceed, I'd like to thank Kumi Yoshida (CEO Systema Engineering), Clyde Caceres (The Development Group International) and Troy Mohr (Tactical Toystore) for making this evaluation possible.



How is it Different?

One of the biggest problems with using Airsoft for Law Enforcement or Military training drills is the fact that the AEG continues to fire after the magazine is empty. This wastes battery power, wears down on your gearbox and real steel firearms just plain DON'T do that. Systema set out to solve this flaw by creating an AEG that would be smart enough to know when it's out of rounds and then stop cycling after the last BB is fired. They also wanted to require that the bolt catch be pressed before the AEG could cycle.

In an ideal world, this works as intended. You load the magazine, switch to semi or full auto, press the bolt catch, shoot until your magazine is empty and then repeat. However, Systema doesn't yet have this down to an exact Science. Often times, there's still 2-3 rounds left in the magazine when it stops firing. Also, any time you tap that bolt catch by accident while crawling around in the field will also disable your PTW from firing. Then you might take the magazine out to see if it's time to reload, but no matter what there will always be a BB or two still loaded. It's hard to tell if you ran out of ammo or if you hit that bolt catch censor.

This minor annoyance can be bypassed by holding the bolt catch while you fire. If no BBs come out, it's time to load another magazine. Obviously, this defeats the purpose of having this feature in the first place. Systema's engineers are working to eliminate this problem in future revisions, I'll keep my eyes peeled.

The Interior

Systema's proprietary split gearbox design goes miles beyond what I've seen in the new ICS Olympic Arms branded M4 type replicas. Rather than taking an existing (and by some standards "flawed") version2 gearbox design and simply splitting it in half, Systema opted to have the gearbox inline in the lower receiver. The cylinder set is independent of the gears and completely self-contained. Cylinders can be swapped if you need harder or weaker springs for different occasions or playfields. ($165)



They've also introduced circuitry into the lower receiver that ensures every shot fired with the PTWS is a complete cycle. There's no need to ever decompress the spring, it always goes back to the correct position. Skeptics may argue that having even more electronic parts can just lead to more problems, but perhaps they've never had a broken tappet plate before a game. Having been in my hands for a 45 day evaluation, and before that for 90 days with the Army, the circuitry worked flawlessly. You'll notice it as soon as you pull the trigger, the cycle sounds crisp and very smooth, compared to your average Tokyo Marui M4A1 that sounds like a pissed off sewing machine.



The barrel and hopup assembly leave much to be desired. I was surprised to hear that all Systema PTWS ship with 6.1mm inner barrels. Notice I did not say 6.01, it's 6.1. Systema manufactures amazing precision inner barrels and I'm not really sure why they didn't use them in this replica. Unfortunately, you also won't be able to swap the barrel because Systema uses a proprietary inner barrel, third party upgrades aren't available. For most training applications, especially indoor, the 6.1 inner barrel will be all you need. However, for those of us Airsofters who are used to getting kills at 100-150 feet outdoors, you will not be impressed by the grouping.

The hopup must be adjusted with an alan-like tool inside the magwell. Each time you have to tweak the hopup, you need to remove the magazine to make another adjustment. Rumor has it, Systema was actually planning to release this model with a fixed hopup. For training, this makes sense, less moving parts mean less operator error. Perhaps they'll kill two birds with one stone and release a precision inner barrel unit with an accurate fixed hopup in future versions of the PTWS. I'll hold my breath.

The Exterior

The PTWS is built to spec as realistic as possible. The body of the replica is much closer to the real steel width of an actual AR15 receiver, due to it's own proprietary in-line gearbox and motor. Of course, the receiver is metal, and all other parts that should be metal are (aside from the flash-hider, more on that below). The first thing you'll notice if you ever handle one is that this thing is a beast! You could chop trees down with it. Having been beaten and battered by the Army for 3 months and then in my hands for 45 days, I had no noticeable barrel wobble at all.

The receiver pins are built with locks so that they cannot be pushed out all the way, for anyone who's lost receiver pins before, I'm sure you understand the importance of a feature like that. The PTWS ships with an orange plastic flash-hider with metal threads for the outer barrel, this is due to the fact that it's marketed as a training tool and not a weapon for mil-sim battles. This is a quick fix with any real-steel flash-hider. On that note, it's obvious that you can take the safety even further by using a blue hand-guard to emphasize the fact that the PTWS is not a real firearm.

Systema's magazines for the PTWS (again proprietary) are very heavy duty and feel much more like the real thing when compared to those made by Tokyo Marui, Classic Army, G&P and so on. They're available in 30, 60, and 120 round versions.



The M4A1 model PTWS comes standard with a crane style stock, I had never used one before testing out this replica and now I must say I really miss having it. The stock had multiple locking positions with a rubberized surface where your cheek rests. The stock also serves as a battery compartment, you can fit a 2 prong style large type battery in it for all-day action. After using this battery setup, I would never go back to trying to cram a v-battery into the fore-grip of any M4A1 model. Another thing to note about the battery, make sure you don't plug it in until you're ready to use it. The PTWS' circuitry drains the battery slowly, if you leave it plugged in overnight before a game the next day, you may find it's been drained significantly.

The cocking lever on the PTWS serves no purpose but to assist with removing the cylinder during take-down. It can be used to simulate chambering the first round, however you cannot pull it back nearly as far as with a real steel AR. The forward assist knob also doesn't have any function to the replica itself, but can be pressed. The bolt catch must be depressed in order to prime the PTWS for firing, which is one function of realism that no other AEG has been able to boast.

The finish on the barrel and receiver are very much like you'd expect from a real firearm, it's gray rather than the "painted look" of matte black. Trademarks and serial number are all Systema branded, as to be expected. They're laser engraved and painted white.



Durability

The model I was allowed to test had just come off of a 90 day test with the Army, it was not sent in for refurbishment or repair, I received it "as is." It was solid as a rock, no barrel wobble and in great condition.

You also won't have to worry about breaking tabs, the body implements a very solid block of metal where the receiver pin goes through in the back. I can't see any way this would break off under any normal circumstances.

Upgrade Options

All of the internal parts in this replica were built specifically for the PTWS. This means you can't simply swap out a spring or a gear set on your own, as many of us are used to with our standard AEGs. However, Systema makes it easy to upgrade with swappable cylinder sets. A cylinder set is a self contained unit that has everything you need from the spring to the piston itself. Upgrading your AEG from an M100 to an M130 is as easy as opening the receiver and dropping in a different cylinder. 2 minutes tops, and you can do it on the field! Cylinder sets retail at approximately $165, most mil-sim enthusiasts would only ever really need 2 total (one for outdoor, and one for indoor).

For external parts, most real steel parts and AR15 accessories will be compatible with your Systema. This includes things like RIS units, 37mm launchers, flashhiders, stocks, optical mounts, ReadyMag systems and much more. The possibilities here are pretty vast.

Tactically Speaking

The M4A1 is an extremely versatile platform for limited long range use outdoors and amazing for indoor/cqc tactical use. The crane stock also adds a nice touch that you can feel right off the bat when you shoulder it. Keep in mind, everything on the Systema PTWS is specifically for this replica, even the magazines. This means that in a team situation, you will be unable to swap out magazines with your teammates unless they have Systema magazines.

The Bottom Line

I'm not really sure how this platform will bode with Airsoft mil-sim enthusiasts in the United States, considering many of us can go to any gun show next weekend and buy a real-steel AR15 for near the same price. But the fact remains, this is as realistic as an AEG can get. Systema will continue to raise the bar as they release new versions and new replicas. If it's important for you to have an extremely durable and realistic AEG that will actually stop firing when you run out of ammo, the Systema may very well be worth it's $1200 price tag.



Systema Professional Training Weapon System
M4A1 PTWS AEG Review
Published on: Tue 10 Jan, 2006 8:55 pm
Author: Matt "Dates" Rowell
Category: Assault Rifles
(http://www.airsoftpacific.com/)

Airsoft Rifle: Jing Gong M4A1 Review

JG M4 A1 Review

By Night Stalker

I know you might be wondering by now why am I reviewing this M4 A1 from Jin Gong. Well, I am not just an AUG lover, but a 5.56mm believer as well. When I started with this hobby I purchased my first ever airsoft aeg base on my favorite looking gun without minding anything else. I bought Marui's G36C when it first came out of the shelves of Airsoft Philippines. No it didn't last longer than you can upgrade your AUG to 500fps, it was heavy and it was tall, and it didn't have much accessories as the M4 had at that time. So after two weeks when I sold it, I got myself an M4 and it lasted through the years of my airsoft hobby. A week before the JG AU-1G came to Manila, I got my JG M4 from Mossad and it reminded me so well of my Marui M4. That description alone gives you a hint that JG's M4 is a definite Marui clone. Most of my review will be based in comparison with Marui's M4 model and I am encouraging all readers to post their questions, comments and their own reviews as well.

So what's different? Nothing is different between the JG M4A1 and the Marui M4A1, well except for the markings of course. It feels like, it weighs like and it sounds and shoots even more better than Marui.

Even the bolt lever opens the ejection port cover and exposes the hop-up system that now works with precision, as compared with other makes or brands. The similarity in construction will never guarantee us a similarity in perfornance, sometimes mere difference in millimeter can largely affect performance or accuracy in the hop-up system. So as soon as you get you JG M4A1, check right away inside the hop-up system for faults or tweaks.

There is a closer look at the hop-up adjust dial... any difference with TM? sometimes I feel like I am carrying a Marui at the gamesite, and that goes to most JG M4A1 I see.

The bolt assist button in the real steel M4 is used to push in an almost jammed bullet that needs a little pushing into the barrel. JG's version is accurately replicated but does not work entirely. I am imagining an M4 AEG with an all working features, for example, the bolt assist unlocks the anti reverse latch during a hanged cycle when your battery unexpectedly drops voltage.. hmmm.... what else? Imagine!!

There is the bolt assist button, yes it works with a push of a finger but don't expect an action as a result. It's just a replica.

The front sight is so exact and an adjustment tool is also included to adjust the height of the front reticle tip, is that what its called? The outer barrel is made of metal, yes METAL or BAKAL and I noticed some signs of corrosion inside of the outer barrel. Unlike Marui, JG's version makes for a heavier build and feel that adds realism.. Marui's outer barrel finish though has an advantage with it's finish, it does look more like a real metal as compared to JG's version which is painted flat black.

There is the extended stock at the 6th position. JG's stock has a firm grip on the tube and does not easily slide off when you press the lock, I like this better than Marui's smooth operation.

The detachable carry handle is an Award Winning design if I was to give this company a trophy. Sturdy and light, this carry handle can also accommodate the MilSpec top rail mount by a twist of a nut and install the most common red dot or reflex sights available in the market. This is so Marui!

When detached, the "flat top" as everyone calls it, reveals the revolutionary MilSpec rail that accommodates and installs most accessories as per operator requirement. The most frequent equipment we see are the EoTech, Aimpoint and the ACOG. Held by a single screw in the front portion and a clip-slot in the rear end portion, be careful not to apply too much force as you may break the upper receiver that holds the nut the counters the screw.

Chronograph Testing

Move over Tokyo Marui! JG's out of the box M4A1 shoots 90fps more!!

Yes it's true! Curious about what everyone claimed who has purchased the aeg ahead of me, I borrowed a team mate's Chronograph and I was overwhelmed, exhilirated, blown out of my seat and smiles up to my ears when I got the results of my chrono testings and here they are.

Yes! a whopping 375fps at best!! I chronoed 10 shots and they all varied between 373 to 375fps and now I am upset! Our cqb playsite is limited to 350fps... now I have to downgrade the spring.. lol!

A peek at what's outside and inside the Gearbox

This is the JG M4A1 Type-2 cylinder and below is the JG M733 Commando Type-2 cylinder

Notice the difference? The 733 has a goldish brass cylinder and the M4A1 above has a grayish cylinder. I am assuming that the M4A1's cylinder is coated or treated.

Here are the innards. Plastic 6mm bushings, metal gears which I am assuming will take on an M120 or PDI190 easily. Piston body construction looks sturdy and looks like it can crank a PDI190 but a PDI170 is recommended. Tappet plate looks funny because of the color, but hey they are very strong!

written by Fox from www.airsoftfaqs.com
http://www.airsoftfaqs.com/reviews/airsoft-rifle-jing-gong-m4a1-review-2.html

JG AEG Product

Features

• Semi/Full Auto Heavy Weight Metal Gearbox (3750g)
• Adjustable Hop-up System with Functional Safety
• Magazine: Hi-Cap 250 Rounds, Velocity: 370-390 fps (.20g BB), Adjustable Metal Front and Rear Sights
• Removable Top Handle, Metal R.I.S. System with Hand Guard Panel Set

Features

• JG M4 RIS System Airsoft Gun 500 FPS w/ 0.12g BB, 420 FPS w/ 0.2g BB
• Adjustable Flip-up Rear Sight, Adjustable Hop-up system,
• 300rds Metal Hi-Cap Magazine, Safe, Semi & Full Auto Modes
• Functional Safety Switch, Battery & Charger Included
• Reinforced Gear Box, M120 Spring Grade, extreme powerful and durable.

Features

• Version III Metal Gearbox
• 340-380 fps stock performance
• Revolutionary bull pup design
• Weaver scope mount included
• high quality battery and charger

Features

• JG M4 RIS System Airsoft Gun 500 FPS w/ 0.12g BB, 420 FPS w/ 0.2g BB
• Adjustable Flip-up Rear Sight, Adjustable Hop-up system,
• 300rds Metal Hi-Cap Magazine, Safe, Semi & Full Auto Modes
• Functional Safety Switch, Battery & Charger Included
• Reinforced Gear Box, M120 Spring Grade, extreme powerful and durable.

Features

• Metal Gearbox AEG, Retractable Crane Stock, Removable Handguard
• Adjustable Flip-up Rear Sight, Adjustable Hop-up system, 380-400 fps Max Velocity
• Rail Integration System(RIS), 250rds Metal Hi-Cap Magazine, # Semi & Full Auto Modes
• Functional Safety Switch, Battery & Charger Included
• Use .20 gram high quality BBs or heavier with this gun.

Features

• Top Brand JG, M16 A2 airsoft gun
• Adjustable front and rear sight Adjustable Hop-up system
• Metal gear box V2 reinforced, Spring grade 110 shooting 350-370 FPS with 0.2g BB
• Full stock, Fixed top handle
• Semi / Full auto modes with safety, Battery and charger included

Features

• Full Automatic Airsoft Gun
• Shoot hard @ 240 FPS
• First Class Worksmanship
• Ideal for Gift or Collection
• Metal Magazine holds 50 BBs

Features

• Full Size Replica Rifle, Metal Body construction (upper receiver, barrel)
• 430 fps w/ 0.12g BB , 330 fps w/ 0.2g BB
• 1500mAh Super Hi Power Battery and Charger Included
• Hi Cap Mag 400 rounds, Adjustable Hop Up Technology for Best Accuracy
• Factory Pre-Upgraded EG-1000 Motor, V3 Metal Gear Box, Reinforced Spring